(This article was published in the Shenzhen Daily on September 24, 2012.)
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The delicate pagoda (塔) peeks past the Main Hall (大雄宝殿) in this view of Lingyanshan Temple (灵岩山寺) in western Suzhou, Jiangsu (江苏, 苏州市) |
First I headed across town to Lingyanshan, an awfully long bus ride, where I discovered that I'd need to climb a mountain. The effort paid off, though, as there were sights along the way, a cheap bowl of noodles to be had, and kind-hearted monks.
The Lingyanshan Scenic Area is on the far west side of town, just a kilometer or two from Taihu Lake. I started at a large pailou (ornamental gate) at street level, where there were unattended litters with no bearers nearby. I wouldn't have taken one anyway, but it was a harbinger of things to come.
Toiling up the steps, I reached the Guanyin Cave in its own small compound, where a shabbily-dressed monk was accepting donations for lighting candles. After buying a much-needed bottle of water, I soldiered on, passing a few carved Buddhas and an interesting small stone pagoda before reaching the front gate of Lingyanshan Temple.
I was told there were more temples beyond, but as this was my goal (and I had another for the day) I was happy to see just this one. The delicate pagoda on the east and the odd, square pond with its small pagoda in the garden to the west made a nice balance.
And then there was the "Vegetarian Noodles Office," a dining hall with delicious, filling meals for only 10 or 12 rmb. As I trudged back down the mountain, I encountered a couple of young monks who, perceiving my overexertion, offered me a gratefully-accepted juice-box.
Then it was into a taxi, and off to the uber-crowded Hanshan Temple.
GPS Info:
- 31.25988, 120.50394
Map:
GALLERY
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The pailou gate at the base of Lingyanshan in Suzhou |
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Litters at the base of the mountain hint at the difficulty of the climb ahead |
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The small Guanyin Cave on the way up to the temple |
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A pagoda along the path to the temple |
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A strange square pond with a small pagoda in the west garden |
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The main hall and pagoda of Lingyanshan Temple (postcard above) |
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An unusual painting of the Buddha-to-be's excursion during which he saw the "Four Sights" |
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